The first time I saw Laxmi, I forgot my manners and stared a few seconds
too long. If I had just one word to describe my first impression of
her, it would be 'peculiar'. Odd choice of adjective for the woman who
was our cook.
It was the summer of 2004, and D and I had just moved to Bangalore
from Kolkata. We'd unpacked ourselves into a sunny little apartment in
leafy Defence Colony, and dived into busy new jobs. Then, one Sunday
morning, Laxmi knocked on our door.
She was a small, frail woman, who could've been of any age; anything
between 25 and 45. I still haven't a clue, and according to her,
neither did she. Her face was like a collage, arranged in a hurry. An
assortment of borrowed features, all fighting to have their say, much
like a Cubist painting. Large, intense eyes sat on bitter-chocolate
skin, the dark brown pupils obstinately meeting each other in the centre.
Her eyes were shy, but very busy. They flitted across my face, then
to the far corner of the room, out of the window, to the neighbour's,
then somewhere far away, and back again. I had the feeling that she had
talked her arms and legs into being still for the sake of our first
meeting. And had ordered her mouth into monosyllables. The only thing
she couldn't quieten were her eyes. And her laugh. It was a sudden burst
of sound, high-pitched and ill-timed. It came without warning, or much
reason, and for a few minutes, it rearranged her eyes, nose and mouth
into a slightly different collage. Another odd jumble.
I think it was Laxmi's laugh that startled me into giving her the
job. On that Sunday morning, this little woman, who looked too frail to
lift a frying pan, became my cook.
I soon found out that she was
anything but frail, and had a personality to match. She was like the
food she cooked - fiery and eccentric. Sometimes that meant coming back
home to noodles that had been tortured with cumin and coriander powder
and dollops of ketchup. But when she managed to curb her need to
experiment, the table would be laden with beautiful, aromatic food -
lentils with curry leaves, vegetables with freshly grated coconut, a
Kerala biryani, or a spicy fish curry.
But I don't remember Laxmi for the food she cooked. Her quirks were
even more endearing than her cooking. I remember her big, unrestrained
smiles. Her constant state of motion. The inexplicable sulks. I remember
the stories she told of her family, and her feuds. A sudden, awkward
hug from her thin, gangly arms. The way she cared for us so fiercely. I
remember her startling laugh. And then, her short, stoic goodbye.
We were in Bangalore for just a year. Not long at all. But long enough for my idiocyncratic cook to have stayed with me.
Laxmi's Cumin & Coriander Cabbage
This was one of Laxmi's simplest dishes. Cabbage stir-fried with cumin and coriander leaves. It's delicious, and one of the few dishes that I haven't tried 'adapting'. It's the quickest thing to toss up, and can be served up as a warm salad, as a side with grilled chicken, or with Indian flat breads like chapati.
Ingredients
1 cabbage, sliced in thin slivers
1 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1 green chilli
, sliced lengthwise and deseeded
(optional)
1 cup chopped coriander leaves
1 1/2 tbs oil
Salt
Heat oil in a pan. When hot, lower heat to medium and add the cumin seeds. As soon as they start browning, add the cabbage, half of the coriander leaves, chilli (if using) and salt. Stir fry for 5 minutes, cover and cook for another 5 minutes. Then add the rest of the coriander leaves and stir till the cabbage is cooked but still has a bit of its crunch.